Chapter 4: Quilt Structures & Padding Reads

Created by Sarah Choi (prompt writer using ChatGPT)

Quilt Structures & Padding Reads for Costume Concept Artists

Focus: how quilting architectures and padding choices shape read, silhouette, and performance — with integration points for embroidery, beading, appliqué, and in‑engine implementation. Written equally for concept and production artists.

Why quilting?

Quilting is controlled thickness: stitching compresses layers to sculpt channels of loft and valleys of shadow. With the right structure and padding, quilting can signal armor, warmth, rank, luxury, or utilitarian toughness while staying light and wearable. For real‑time engines, quilt logic converts into normals/height that cue volume without heavy geo.

Anatomy of a quilt stack (from cloth up)

  • Shell fabric: face cloth (woven/knit/leatherette). Pick for drape and abrasion.
  • Basting/adhesive (optional): spray/fusible to lock layers before stitching.
  • Batting/padding: fiberfill, wool, cotton, foam, felt, spacer mesh. Controls loft, resilience, and thermal read.
  • Backing/lining: inner cloth for comfort, breathability, or to lock the sandwich.
  • Stitching: thread type/weight, needle size, stitch length; controls compression and sheen.

Concept tip: sketch cross‑sections with exaggerated proportions to decide how tall and how sharp edges should look.

Padding materials & their reads

  • Polyester batting (lofted): springy, light, puffy channels; modern outdoor/sci‑fi. Can look shiny under thin shells.
  • Cotton batting (low loft): flatter, matte sculpt; heritage/military; drapes closer to body.
  • Wool batting: warm hand, medium loft with resilience; luxury or traditional.
  • Foam (EVA, PE) sheets: crisp paneling, armor‑like; excellent edge definition; needs ventilation plan.
  • Felt (wool/rayon): dense, thin raise; graphic motifs; great for reverse‑quilt inlays.
  • Spacer mesh/3D knit: breathable puff with rebound; techwear/athletic cues.
  • Trapunto fill (localized): extra batting only under motifs; creates domed emblems.

Quilt structures: pattern families and what they communicate

Linear families

  • Channels (vertical/horizontal/diagonal): speed lines, utilitarian, modern; width sets attitude: narrow = technical; wide = plush.
  • Box/grid (crosshatch): sturdy, regimented; classic field jacket; can echo garment panel grids.
  • Brick/offset rows: dynamic but organized; hides stitch drift.

Shape‑locked families

  • Diamond: heritage equestrian/military; diagonals slim torsos; beware moiré at distance if too fine.
  • Chevron/V: directional energy pointing to center lines or waist; slimming.
  • Orb/coin (circles/ovals): playful or ceremonial; reads premium when trapunto‑raised.
  • Motif quilting (icons, crests): stitched outline around appliqué or print; halo shadow.

Free‑form families

  • Echo quilting: concentric contours around a motif; aura effect; great for magical crests.
  • Stipple/meander (vermicelli): noise‑damping, matte; hides wrinkles; good under sparkly surfaces.
  • Sashiko/Kantha‑inspired: long running stitches with visible rhythm; cultural cues—use respectfully and research context.

Scale rules (on‑body visual math)

  • Stitch spacing (valley‑to‑valley):
    • Micro: 10–20 mm → reads as texture; safest for gameplay distance.
    • Meso: 25–45 mm → clear channel reads; jacket weight.
    • Macro: 50–120+ mm → bold armor/plush; needs stronger shell to avoid pillowing.
  • Channel depth feel: deeper read = higher loft + tighter stitch length. For in‑engine, bevel width in normals ≈ 1–3 mm on‑body for believable edges.
  • Panel proportion: align quilt modules to garment zones (yoke width, bicep height, chest span) to avoid odd crops at seams.

Camera test: at intended distance, each quilt valley should subtend ≥ 2–3 px; if smaller, it will shimmer—upscale the pattern.

Stitching parameters (the dials that change the read)

  • Stitch length: shorter = tighter compression, crisper valleys; longer = softer, potential tunneling.
  • Thread weight & sheen: heavier or glossier threads draw a line; matte threads keep focus on volume.
  • Underlays & stabilizers: prevent shell puckering, especially on knits and lightweight wovens.
  • Seam allowance management: quilting near seams adds bulk—taper batting or notch out allowances.

Pattern layout & seam logic

  • Align channels with form flow (pectoral arcs, deltoid caps) to help motion reads.
  • Avoid placing module edges directly on high‑stress seams; offset by half a module where possible.
  • For continuous reads across panels, match module counts or center motifs on CF/CB; add notches/match points.
  • Add corner solutions (mitered vs radiused) for borders to prevent stitch collisions.

Integration with embroidery, appliqué, beading

  • Crest seating: quilt a low‑loft echo field, then appliqué/embroider the emblem on the plateau.
  • Sparkle control: put sequins on raised ribs and matte stitching in valleys for disciplined highlights.
  • Edge gaskets: use tight satin lines at the boundary of quilted + non‑quilted zones to stop fray and visually separate.
  • Trapunto medallions: localized fill under a crest; outline with backstitch or couching to emphasize the dome.

In‑engine construction (real‑time)

  • Normals/height over geo: bake quilt valleys with a rounded V profile; avoid 1‑px albedo stripes. Use BC5 normals; place low‑contrast albedo shading only.
  • Anisotropy: align tangent to stitch direction to sell thread sheen subtly in roughness/specular.
  • Distance LODs: LOD0—distinct valleys; LOD1—softened valleys; LOD2—quiet cloth with faint weave; use dithered fades.
  • Tiling vs engineered: keep generic channel/diamond tiles for broad areas; switch to engineered panels for yokes/crests.
  • Decal seams: if quilt changes abruptly (panel to panel), use AO seam decals to seat the transition.

Physical build execution

  • Basting & drift control: baste or fuse layers; mark chalk lines; use walking foot to prevent crawl.
  • Tapered batting: feather edges of batting at transitions to avoid ridges.
  • Ventilation: foam/spacer stacks need grommets/mesh lining in heat zones.
  • Weight budget: log padding grams per panel; mirror left/right and maintain shoulder balance.
  • Care: pre‑wash cotton batting for shrink; heat‑set synthetics; test laundering/wear abrasion at hems.

Read tuning with value and color

  • Darker valleys (thread or print) and lighter ridges exaggerate depth; invert for subtle read. For black costumes, use gloss contrast (rough valleys, satin ridges) rather than value jumps.
  • Use color blocking to modulate volume perception (e.g., darker side‑body channels slimming the torso).

Testing protocol

  1. Distance ladder: stills at 1/3/6/10 m; valleys must stay coherent without buzzing.
  2. Motion sweep: pan + walk/run cycles; watch diagonal chattering on diamonds/chevrons.
  3. Light sweep: rotate key 0–180°; verify ridge specular and valley AO stay balanced.
  4. Flex test: bend at elbows/waist; check for shell tunneling, popped stitches, or batting migration.
  5. Thermal/comfort check: for foam/spacer stacks, wear test for heat retention and noise (squeak/rustle).

Failure modes & fixes

  • Pillowing (puffy bubbles): reduce module width, lower loft, shorten stitch, or add underlay.
  • Tunneling along stitch: increase stitch width/underlay; match shell and batting stiffness; change thread tension.
  • Moiré in camera: increase module size; lower valley contrast in albedo; rely on normals.
  • Bulk at seams: taper batting at allowances; split quilting pattern so seam falls in a valley.
  • Batting creep/migration: quilt tighter or add cross‑tacks; choose needle‑punched batting.
  • Hot spots (specular glare): reduce ridge gloss; add micro roughness noise; mix matte thread.

Documentation & handoff

  • Spec board: quilt family, module sizes, stitch length, thread type, batting type/loft, seam/transition plan, integration notes.
  • Engine pack: tileable normal/height sets (channels/diamonds), engineered panel normals for yokes/crests, AO seam decals, LOD thresholds.
  • Build pack: pattern overlays with module counts and match points, batting cut maps with tapers, stitching sequences.
  • Naming: IP_Outfit_Quilt-Family_Module-Size_Loft_v###.

Quick reference

  • Volume = padding + pattern + lighting.
  • Keep modules big enough for camera. ≥ 2–3 px per valley at view.
  • Let normals do the depth; keep albedo calm.
  • Feather transitions; plan seams into valleys.
  • Test in motion; tune stitch length and gloss.

Quilting is sculpting with thread and air. Decide the relief, aim the specular, and your padding will read premium in both pixels and cloth.