Sarah Clarity Studios

Chapter 3: Panels, Gores & Godets for Flare

Created by Sarah Choi (prompt writer using ChatGPT)

Panels, Gores & Godets for Flare in One‑Piece Systems

Orientation for Concept and Production Artists

Panels, gores, and godets are the quiet engines behind flare—how skirts, robes, and gowns open, spin, breathe, and settle. For concept artists, these features determine silhouette language, motion reads, and character psychology. For production artists, they dictate pattern topology, seam economy, and fabric consumption. Treat them as structural choreography: you’re placing lines and wedges that convert a cylindrical body into a controlled bell, trumpet, or waterfall. In one‑piece systems—where bodice and skirt are integrated—these elements must resolve through the waist and torso without breaking fit, rig, or camera logic.

Definitions in Practice

A panel is a vertical slice of the garment that carries seam and grain direction; multiple panels build the whole circumference and distribute flare evenly. A gore is a wedge‑shaped panel that narrows toward the top and widens toward the hem; it adds flare without bulk at the waist or hip. A godet is an inserted wedge placed into a slash or seam, usually starting partway down from the waist; it remains visually quiet at the top but blooms near the hem, ideal when you want drama without changing the waist fit. A gusset is not for flare per se; it’s a functional insert at stress points (crotch, underarm) to add mobility. Knowing which you’re drawing prevents mixed signals in motion and construction.

Flare Geometry: Where Volume Comes From

Flare is surface area added below the fit‑critical zone. In a one‑piece dress, the fit‑critical zone spans high bust to low hip; volume added above this zone changes bodice balance and requires darts or princess seams to recover shape. Gores add area from the waist down, distributing hem circumference in tidy increments; godets add area below a chosen height, creating scallops or petals. Panels can be drafted as straight, bias‑leaning, or curved to control how flare hangs. Even distribution produces a smooth bell; clustered distribution produces directional flare—front‑biased for striding hero shots, back‑biased for train‑like drape, side‑biased for dancer silhouettes.

Grain, Bias, and Drape Behavior

Grain direction is choreography for gravity. Panels on straight grain hang crisp and assert seam lines; on bias they pour and spiral. A bias‑cut gore will flutter and twist on turns, whereas a straight‑grain gore keeps kick localized to the hem. Godets cut on bias act like fins in motion, opening on spin and collapsing softly at rest. In production, mixing grains across panels can create nuanced motion without physics‑heavy simulation; mark this choice clearly in callouts so cutters and tech artists know where elasticity and drop will appear.

One‑Piece Continuity: Resolving the Waist System

Because bodice and skirt are continuous, your flare strategy must pass through the waist cleanly. Princess seams can carry gore logic up through the torso, allowing dart suppression to transition into hem volume without an obvious seam break. A waist seam is not mandatory; if omitted, you must hide shaping in verticals that travel from neckline to hem. For belts, obi, or armored girdles, terminate or originate gores beneath those elements to avoid collision and to let the belt act as a visual clamp that justifies sudden flare below.

Seam Placement as Visual Language

Seams telegraph faction logic, craftsmanship, and technology level. Six to eight panels reads as tailored and resource‑aware; twelve or more reads as ceremonial or high couture. Visible top‑stitching or piping along gores accentuates petal rhythms; hidden seams render the flare as a continuous field of light. Side‑front gores lengthen the leg line; center‑front gores announce pageantry. In stealth or military looks, place gores in shadow zones (side seams, back) to keep the silhouette quiet from the front.

Godets for Expressive “Bloom”

Godets excel when you want surprise. Insert them at knee or mid‑thigh to keep walking efficient while delivering a reveal during spin, kick, or bow. Triangular godets produce sharp petals; circular‑segment godets produce soft scallops; fishtail godets concentrate drama at the back hem for a mermaid or trumpet profile. Contrasting fabric or lining color turns every step into a flash cue. For gameplay readability, color‑coded godets can signal class or power state without altering the base dress.

Gores for Efficiency and Control

Gores are your workhorse. They can be equal width for symmetrical bells or graduated for directional flow. A narrow top on each gore preserves a small waist measurement without bunching; the flare accumulates toward the hem where it is most cinematic. In pattern topology, gores reduce the need for darts, since the wedge shape naturally converts body convexities into surface area below. This saves sewing time and reduces bulk at the waist—critical under belts, harnesses, or plate.

Panels as Modular Architecture

When world logic demands repairability, treat panels as replaceable tiles. Weathered hems can be re‑panelled in diegetic maintenance; ceremonial robes can swap side panels seasonally. In production, modular paneling simplifies variant creation: swap two contrast panels to denote rank; insert embellished panels only for bosses while sharing the core pattern across NPCs. Convey this modularity in your spec sheets with exploded callouts and a palette of panel materials.

Motion, Physics, and Camera

Flare reads through acceleration at the hem. Panels distribute weight and cause delayed follow‑through; godets snap open at specific thresholds, giving FX a predictable cue. For third‑person cameras, back‑weighted flare reveals silhouette in over‑the‑shoulder shots; for isometric, evenly distributed flare prevents occlusion of feet. On ladders or mounts, concentrate flare in back panels and taper front gores to reduce clipping. Communicate your motion intent with three key poses—idle, stride apex, and spin—so rigging can target collision and cloth settings at the right zones.

Materials and Edge Logic

Light, crisp fabrics (taffeta, organza) audibly and visually “speak” seam rhythms, great for showcasing gore arrays. Heavy twills and wools make flare solemn, suitable for authority figures. Lace or openwork godets add transparency that reads at mid‑distance. Hem finishes change behavior: horsehair braid stiffens edges for bell control; raw or baby hems let edges flutter. Binding a godet edge highlights petal geometry; weighted beads inside the hem give dramatic swing but need collision planning.

Vents, Slits, and Mobility

When you rely on godets for flare, you can keep vents minimal. Conversely, if a silhouette must stay slim but stride freely, integrate venting and reserve godets for the back only. A front vent plus back godets grants reach for climbing while preserving a statuesque line at rest. In robes, side slits paired with internal triangular godets maintain modesty during wide stances. Always anchor vent tops with bar‑tacks or decorative plaques to justify reinforcement visually.

Anatomy and Proportion Reads

Panel rhythms can lengthen or compress the figure. Vertical paneling that converges toward the waist carves the torso and extends the leg line. A low‑placed godet start point visually lowers the knee, creating a heavier, grounded character; high‑placed godets create airy, nimble reads. For large sizes or armored under‑structures, distribute smaller, more numerous gores to avoid pleat‑like bulk while maintaining even weight around the body.

Historical and Cultural Cues (with Respect)

Many traditions express status through panel count and godet shape. Fishtail trains and trumpet skirts evoke late‑19th‑century Western evening wear; multi‑petal godets echo certain ceremonial robes across cultures. When borrowing forms, research original purposes—ease over layered garments, dance requirements, modesty systems—and retain their logic even if you stylize line and proportion. Annotate references and clearly label what is homage versus invention to guide art direction and sensitivity review.

One‑Piece Variants: Empire, Sheath, Princess, Kimono‑Inspired

Flare strategies shift by one‑piece subtype. An empire dress often transitions to flare right under the bust; small, frequent gores keep the expansion elegant without ballooning. A sheath can hide narrow godets inside long seams for surprise mobility. Princess‑seamed gowns are ideal for gore continuity—seams travel from neckline to hem with no waist interruption. Kimono‑inspired robes maintain panel logic but favor straight‑grain verticals; when you add godets, do so below the obi or hem guards to respect the garment’s planar heritage while enabling action.

Construction Notes for Production Artists

Mark notches where gore tops meet parent seams; the narrower the gore head, the more critical notch accuracy becomes. Press allowances toward the panel for crisp read; understitch where necessary. If godets begin below the knee, stabilize the slash with stay‑stitching before insertion. For bias godets, allow hang time prior to final hemming to let the bias drop. When mixing heavy and light fabrics, ease the heavier into the lighter over longer seam lengths to prevent puckering. Document hem circumference per size to predict yardage and simulation settings.

2D/3D Workflow and Handoff

In concept, draw seam maps early—even at thumbnail scale—because panel rhythm is composition. Provide a front, back, and three‑quarter callout with seam types indicated (top‑stitched, piped, hidden). In 3D, block the garment with panel proxies rather than a single shell; this preserves edge flow and sets up for cloth sim. Supply a hem arc diagram showing where flare is concentrated. Include a short motion sheet—step, turn, crouch—so the cloth team can tune constraint and damping per zone.

Rigging, Cloth, and Optimization

Panels inform cloth constraints: seams are natural places for stiffness, while godets are flagged for higher stretch and more dramatic angle limits. If performance is tight, reduce panel count on NPCs and keep only hero characters with full godet sets. Bake panel shading into normal maps using subtle bevels at seams; this preserves the rhythm when LODs collapse seam geometry. For capes and long robes, isolate back panels on a dedicated cloth node to keep collisions manageable with backpacks, weapons, and tails.

Troubleshooting the Silhouette

If the hem buckles unevenly, check grain alignment and distribution symmetry; a single bias‑cut panel among straight‑grain neighbors will torque the whole circumference. If the waist balloons, your gore heads are too wide—reduce their top width and re‑allocate area to the lower third. If flare feels dead on camera, insert two small bias godets where the camera most often reads the character, or stiffen the hem with braid to capture light. If clipping occurs at stairs, taper front gores and shift flare mass to the rear.

Visual Storytelling with Flare

Flare is emotional punctuation. Multiple narrow gores read as meticulous and intelligent; broad, sweeping godets read as generous and romantic. Angular triangular inserts feel martial; scalloped circular inserts feel lyrical. In stealth gameplay, a paneled bell that whispers rather than flashes can communicate discipline; in ceremonial scenes, contrasting godets can act as banners that unfurl with each step. Use edge treatments—embroidery, metallic binding, inked hems—to author the sound your fabric would make if the audience could hear it.

Deliverables Checklist (Described for Paragraph‑Driven Sheets)

Your final handoff should include written paragraphs that specify seam count and placement, grain direction per panel, gore head widths and start heights, godet shapes and contrast materials, hem circumference targets per size, vent strategy and reinforcement, material stack and weight, and cloth/rigging notes keyed to three motion poses. Replace bullet lists with flowing sentences so the sheet reads like a design brief any department can follow.

Closing Principle

Panels, gores, and godets are not merely ornament—they are the logic by which fabric becomes character. When you place them with intention, one‑piece systems hold the torso, free the stride, and speak a visual dialect that can be read from fifty meters or in a close‑up. Design the rhythm, prove the physics, and let the hem write the final line of dialogue as your character exits frame.